Ecuador
Arrival at Quito
Arrived in Quito after a 6000 mile flight from Amsterdam. The flight took us along the English coast giving us good views of Devon and Cornwall and the snow on Exmoor. The first thing we noticed at Quito airport was the change in temperature to over 20 degrees C. The airport is at an altitude of over 8000 ft and the city itself is higher still. Then a short and very scenic drive from the airport admiring the views of the volcanoes including one of the highest active volcanoes in the world. Very tired and it is an early start in the morning (6.15 am) as we head out for the cloud forest.
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The Bellavista Cloud Forest
Little chance to catch up with sleep with an early start at 0610, although we were awake at 5am, we are still on UK time, but it was good to see that the children were going to school at 0645. Saw a little of the city of Quito on the way out. There must have been a local festival as by the cathedral there were fireworks and a procession with a band playing. Once we left the city it was about a 90 minute ride to the lodge, a distance of about 50 km, but it took about 40 minutes to do the last 8 or 9 km up a narrow, steep rocky track. Nice and sunny when we set out but as we entered the valleys light mist turned to heavy mist and rain, so warm and humid all day. After breakfast at the lodge we had a guided walk along one of the trails. We could hear lots of bird calls but the birds themselves were very elusive. We were shown several varieties of trees which had local medical uses and you could see the scars where people had cut the bark to collect the sap or resin. There were also many colourful plants. After lunch we took ourselves off to explore one of the other trails for ourselves and found a few things of interest including a giant earthworm (which can grow to over a metre in length). The highlight of the day were the hummingbirds. There are over a hundred different species of these brilliantly coloured birds at the lodge and they put out feeders to encourage the birds to visit. We spent a lot of time watching and admiring them.
Bellavista And Return To Quito
This morning we decided not to get up and join the bird watchers at 0645, but to have a long lie until 0700 when we got up to see the sun shining and the views across the valley. We also saw the butterflies and birds and spent more time watching the hummingbirds. After breakfast we took another guided walk, this time to the waterfalls – there were two alternatives, a harder trail which involved wading rivers and an easier option. We took the easier option which involved a steep descent on a slippery trail and occasional use of rope handrails, for an hour to reach the waterfall. The waterfall was impressive and entirely fed by rain water rather than a river. Then of course it was back the way we came and a steep ascent for an hour. We still haven’t acclimatised to the altitude so we were a little breathless! By this time the clouds had started to come back and by the time we went for lunch It was raining again. The drive back to Quito was the reverse of the way including the bumpy single track. As we left the valley and the cloud forest the skies cleared to cloudy blue skies. We had an hour or two to walk around the historic centre of Quito before dinner. Tomorrow we are off to the Jungle so it will be 3 or 4 days before we can send more updates on our progress.
Arrival at Sacha Lodge
A warm sunny morning to wake up in Quito. After breakfast we were driven to the airport from where we took a 25 minute flight to Coca. We had a short drive to the river in a school bus. The temperature here was 24 degrees with high humidity. The river is the largest in Ecuador and a major tributary to the Amazon. At the river bank we transferred to a motorised canoe for our fast 90 minute journey down river. We stopped along the way for lunch and a visit to a cultural museum which showed a little of the history of the area and the life of the tribal peoples here. There was a period of heavy rain which soon cleared. We arrived at the entrance to the lodge where we had a 30 minute walk to transfer us to a small paddle powered canoe which took us across the lagoon to the main lodge area. The bad news came with the welcome drink that we will be woken up each morning at 5am for breakfast. We have a large cabin with a hammock outside, there is no glass to the windows, just mesh to keep out the insects and let in the sound of the surrounding jungle. This really is a beautiful place to stay.
Above The Trees
This morning we saw why it is called the rainforest. We were woken about 4am in the morning by the sound of heavy rain on the roof of our cabin. By breakfast time at 5.45 it was drier and clearing. Appearances can be deceptive; it is a 5 minute walk from breakfast to our cabin and in that time I got drenched, it felt like standing under a warm power shower.
At 6.30 it was drier as we set off on a walk to the forest canopy walkway. On the way we stopped to see a sleeping owl perched high in a tree and almost perfectly camouflaged as if it was a part of the tree. To access the walkway we had to climb a tower of 180 steps which led onto a lengthy narrow wire bridge suspended between two further towers. We stopped at the top of each of the towers to admire the trees below and the birdlife. We saw lots of Toucans, some vultures and beautifully coloured small birds. After descending the final tower we walked further through the forest to the butterfly farm. When I say walked, what I really mean is we waded in our borrowed wellies through the wood. The brightly coloured butterflies made a restful end to the morning’s activities. At midday it is very hot and too hot for the wildlife, so it was very quiet waiting for lunch.
It continued hot and sunny up until abòut half an hour before our afternoon activity. The skies darkened and there was a thunderstorm and torrential rain. We set off on a walk into the “dry” forest where we were shown how some of the trees and plants were used by some of the native groups. From here we continued our walk on walkways in the flooded forest. By this time the rain had stopped and the sky cleared to make for a hot sunny late afternoon. We then boarded a canoe and drifted down a small river which took us back into the lagoon and then back to the lodge, where we spent some time watching other guests trying to catch piranhas. After dinner we took our torches for a short night time walk to see what creatures were around. We saw a few tarantulas, lots of tiny colourful frogs, a praying mantis and various other insects. A later start tomorrow – our wake up call is at 6 am.
More Trails and Canoe Rides
We were woken during the night by thunder and the sound of rain on the roof of the cabin. This morning is cooler with some heavy bursts of rain. Our trail this morning took us into a different part of the forest and we saw clearly the difference between primary and secondary rainforest. Thirty years ago this secondary forest was farmland and is now slowly reverting to forest, so is more open and without the very tall trees of the primary forest. We moved on towards the flooded forest where we took a canoe to explore some of the creeks. There are two types of flooded forest, one of which is permanently flooded and the other flooded for only part of the year. Today (and yesterday) we were in a permanently flooded forest. After the canoe ride we walked back through the forest during a heavy burst of rain and despite the cover of the tree canopy we got very wet. We also saw how dark it could get in the dense primary forest during the day. During the morning we were shown many of the useful plants. The leaves of a particular type of palm were cut and the fibres from inside the leaves extracted and rubbed together to form a thin and very strong thread which could be used to make useful things like hammocks. Another plant proves a remedy for the lethal venom of the Fer de Lance snake. Two of our group got stung by a wasp, but fortunately there is a plant to remedy this. A small drop of the plant sap applied to the bite took away the pain and stopped any further reaction. We saw some bullet ants which have a very bag sting which can produce intense pain, maybe lasting up to 24 hours. Other plants we have seen in the last two days could be used to make energy drinks, as contraceptives, to make a cup to drink from, to make a shelter or roofing material etc etc.
During the canoe ride we saw more of the birdlife and some beautiful orchids. A hot sunny and humid afternoon brought out the turtles to sun themselves.For our final activity here we had another canoe trip through the flooded forest. Our destination was a 50 metre tall tree which had a series of steps built spiralling around it to take you to a viewing platform 45 metres from the ground. Because of the heat there was not a lot of bird life to see, but we did see some squirrel monkeys jumping from tree to tree. We could hear Howler monkeys in the distance and later on the canoe ride home saw Capuchin monkeys crashing through the treetops. Waiting for our final dinner here with an open bottle of red wine.
Return To Quito
A warm and sunny morning for our return journey on the powered canoe along the river and then the short flight back. Not sure that the Hymn “Nearer my God to Thee” was the best thing to hear entering the airport at Coca. Probably the smallest airport that we’ve ever been at. A quiet night in order to get ready for lots of travelling in the next few days.
Otavalo
When we went to the cloud forest at the start of the tour we crossed the Equator several times. Today, on a different road, we stopped at the Equator line to pose for photos on foot in the North and one foot in the South. Shortly after, we made a brief stop for hot chocolate and cheese and biscuits. The biscuits are traditional to the area and we saw them being baked in a wood heated oven. After this we visited the Condor Park where in addition to the condor we saw Owls, Hawks, Eagles and Falcons. There was a very impressive display in which some of the birds were flown. Many of the birds had been rescued and the idea is that the birds are used as breeders in a conservation project. One old bird ( now a grandmother) had broken her wing as a youngster and had never flown, so they had made walkways going up and down to her sleeping quarters. A brief stop to admire the panoramic view of the lake and the city of Otavalo and then on to the city. We spent some time in the market which was very colourful. The area grows a lot of roses and rose petals are often strewn on the pavements. We had a late lunch in a very nice restaurant which provided the best choice of vegetarian food so far. Then it was a 2 hour drive back to Quito.
Avenue of the Volcanoes
Though we left Scotland to avoid the Snow! Rainy and with low clouds when we left Quito,but the clouds soon started to lift and we could feel the sun coming through. We stopped for the panoramic view of the city, then we continued to a town’s market where we spent some time admiring the range of fruit and vegetables. The area we were going through is a dairy producing area so a stop was made in a small town to taste one of their pride products – ice cream. We continued on a constantly climbing road through the Avenue of the Volcanoes, which gave us some spectacular views. The clouds covered the tops of the higher volcanoes but others were clearly visible and in some cases we could see smoke coming from them. A little after midday we reached the Volcano, Chimborazo. Because the Earth is not perfectly spherical, but bulges at the Equator the top of this volcano is closer to the sun than the summit of Mount Everest. The height of the volcano is over 6000 metres and our bus took us up to 4800 metres. We had the option of an hour’s walk to take us to a hut at 5000 metres. Some of us took up the challenge but we stopped 40 metres short of the target ( we got to 4960 metres or 16272ft). At this height we were above the snow line and it did start to snow while we were there. The photograph of a watch records and verifies the height we reached. We have never been so high up and breathing was more difficult at this altitude. The bus took us for a late and well earned lunch in a Bavarian style wooden Lodge. From there we continued to Riobamba where we spent some of the night before breakfast at 5 am.
Riding on the Devil’s Nose
Up at 4.30 and on the road before 6am. A brief stop was made so we could see the oldest church in South America. We arrived at the station to get the 8am train on the Devil’s nose ( the name refers to the shape of the hillside we were travelling down. The first part of the journey took a winding route down the hillside and gave us some splendid views. The second half of the journey involved two switchbacks in which the train gets to the end of a line, the points behind it are changed and the train reverses on to a lower track. This zigzag motion is the only way the train can get down a steep gradient.The return journey took 40-45 minutes each way with a stop at the bottom of about an hour for coffee and cake and a display of local dancing. After this was a continuation of yesterday’s drive along twisting mountain roads passing in and out of the clouds. About lunchtime we had another stop to visit an important Inca archeological site at Ingapirca. From here a further drive took us to the city of Cuenca where we stayed for the next 2 nights. We stopped on the way in for a panoramic view of the city, it was 5pm with lovely blue skies and a temperature of 26 degrees. First impressions are that it is a beautiful place to stay. The last few photos are of the hotel and as you can see, it’s far too posh for the likes of us, but they did put us in the attic (Servant’s Quarters)
City Tour of Cuenca
Finally a later start today after a leisurely breakfast. Our first visit was to a Panama Hat factory, which was very interesting and we even tried on a few hats! After this was a walking tour of the city which included a visit to a sweet shop (small biscuits and chocolates) at a convent, the flower market and the new cathedral. After this tour, the rest of the day was our own so we climbed to the roof terrace of the cathedral for the view of the city. After all this a light lunch was called for which started with ice cream and continued, after a short break to visit the old Cathedral, with coffee and cakes. Feeling revitalised we walked along the river and viewed some more archeological sites and visited another interesting church which was being restored after a fire and had wonderful painted walls and an unusual ceiling made of tin. We climbed a winding wooden staircase up the church tower for another panoramic view of the city. Time then for an early tea so we can be ready for an early start to travel to the coast and our final night before flying to the Galapagos.
Cajas National Park
It was only a short drive to the Cajas National Park of about 40 minutes but in the process we climbed back to over 4000 metres in height. The road took us up into the Northern end of the Andes and we had spectacular views of glacial valleys. We were warned that there was a possibility of low visibility and rain which would prevent a trek in the park, but we were lucky and walked for over 2 hours in the park in cool, dry and often sunny weather. We saw a variety of flowering alpine plants and just before the end of the walk encountered a group of Llamas which included a mother and her kid, they passed very close to us and we watched them for some time. After the trek we made a very rapid descent as we started our 3 hour journey to Guayaquil. The weather changed and for a while we were in thick clouds with rain, but this changed as we moved into the coastal region of Ecuador, when it became sunny and hot. It was quite a shock to get to the extensive flat coastal plain after our time in the mountains and jungle. In this region we saw banana plantations, rice fields and cocoa trees. We arrived in a very hot and busy Guayaquil which we will explore more in a week’s time. Tomorrow morning we depart for the Galapagos, so this is our last posting on the blog for a week, you will have a lot to catch up with then!
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